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HomeMalbecELABORACION RAZONADA DE VINO MALBEC DE ALTA GAMA EN EL PEDEMONTE MENDOCINO.

ELABORACION RAZONADA DE VINO MALBEC DE ALTA GAMA EN EL PEDEMONTE MENDOCINO.

Lic. en Enología Angel A. Mendoza.

INTRODUCCIÓN:

Cada vez, que un enólogo o gerente de producción, está motivado en diseñar un producto competitivo, necesita entender las características organolépticas y técnicas que debe reunir el vino a desarrollar.
Un Malbec noble, grand vin,”single vineyard“ ó reserva privada de la familia, debe poseer un perfil emblemático que lo identifique con la originalidad del terruño y la filosofía de la bodega.
Debe ser capaz de dejar recuerdos inolvidables, fáciles de reconocer .
Por ello, necesitamos saber cuáles son las sensaciones de un vino Malbec prestigioso.

 

 

CUALIDADES SENSORIALES DE UN GRAN VINO MALBEC.

Es necesario una experiencia previa de varias botellas de vinos prestigiosos y caros para comprender y disfrutar la tipicidad , la complejidad, el bouquet y el amplio sabor de un gran vino.
Intentaremos describir las cualidades determinantes de un Malbec complejo, de linaje y abolengo.

• EN LA VISTA:

Un color rojo brillante, profundo, obscuro, casi negro. Con matices bordó, estable durante sus primeros cinco años de elaborado – criado y envasado . Para tornar luego muy levemente a los rojos rubí durante los siguientes años.
“De un gran Malbec es necesario enamorarse a primera vista”.

• EN LA NARIZ:

La seducción comienza con su típico aroma dulce de frutos negros (mora, ciruela, guinda) frescos , en mermelada ó secos.
Algunos terruños, se expresan por el intenso aroma de flores rojas, entre ellas las violetas y las rosas .
Otros terruños exaltan aromas salvajes de trufa, cuero, grafito, carne ahumada ó añoso bosque húmedo.
En viñedos de altura suele poseer aromas balsámicos de menta – tomillo – romero y eucalipto.

Con la crianza en madera, la intensidad aromática aumenta, por los sabores del roble: vainilla, coco, clavo de olor, café tostado, chocolate negro, manteca tostada, pimienta negra.
Estos aromas nunca deberían sobresalir sobre el carácter varietal.
Con la crianza en botella, a partir de los primeros nueve meses (como un parto feliz), los aromas de la fruta y la moderada madera se funden. Y en reacciones aún poco conocidas, en el cierre hermético de un excelente tapón, expresan un intenso bouquet.
Las huellas de un gran vino, están en la delicadeza de su bouquet, que recuerda gratos aromas otoñales e invernales de nueces, almendras y avellanas, frutos rojos en confitura , tabaco, hojas secas, humeantes leños duros de una estufa en una cabaña nueva de madera.
Después de diez años un Malbec complejo y concentrado, suele pedir el servicio de decanter ó copones de cristal, para abrir su perfil aromático.

• EN LA BOCA:

Debe llegar la confirmación de un romance o enamoramiento.
Al ataque, en la punta de la lengua, moderadamente seco, insinuando su calidez cuando el alcohol, supera los 13°Gl
Al paso de boca, muestra su natural baja acidez y cuerpo generoso, porque se abre impregnando toda la lengua y el paladar expresando la fineza de sus aromas y bouquet.
En viñedos de altura muestra más frescura , acidez y fluidez .
Y en el final de boca, como soberbia sinfonía química, llegará todo lo distinguido de un gran Malbec. Sus taninos amables, amplios , medianamente secos. Su volumen, su suave estructura y calidez, la natural souplesse y charme.
Sus caudalias son prolongadas y siempre un gran Malbec, motiva al sentido del tacto, a sugerir un segundo sorbo para continuar con el placer.
A veces el contenido de una botella no alcanza, cuando se lo disfruta en pareja, con un buen amigo, un ser querido, ó un buen negocio.
Esta es la magia de un Gran Malbec, tiene el calor y la hospitalidad de los vinicultores que lo elaboran.
Intentaremos ahora describir el “savoir fare”, o las bases para diseñar un vino Malbec de alta expresión.

 

 

BASES VITÍCOLAS (definitivamente el vino primero es uva que nace y se desarrolla en la viña).

 

• Selección de viñedos en regiones frescas, en el pedemonte de la cordillera andina. Para Mendoza, la zona alta del Río Mendoza, el Valle de Uco y algunos terruños de San Rafael, entre los 800 y los 1200 metros sobre el nivel del mar. A más altura , la uva ,de intenso color en la piel , su pulpa no madura lo suficiente , su estilo es más liviano , ácido y austero .
• Viñedos de vigor y producción controlada. Preferiblemente de alta densidad de plantación y antiguos, con más de treinta años. El volumen de raíces es fundamental para marcar tipicidad y resistir el estres .
• Alta pureza varietal que supere el 90 %.
• Con labranza en suelos arcillosos y profundos , usando subsolador , arado y desorilladora.
• La selección masal y clonal de la variedad , los terruños y los viticultores comprometidos con la calidad, es el objetivo más vibrante de los próximos tiempos, en la búsqueda de la tipicidad y originalidad de un Gran Malbec. Es la base de un “single vineyard”
• Poda Guyot ó cordón pitoneado, para una producción promedio de dos kilos por planta. Un kilo de fruta por metro cuadrado de canopia , es una producción equilibrada.
• Control racional e inteligente del vigor con bajo aporte de agua y abonos químicos.
• Preciso programa de aplicaciones preventivas de azufre y cobre para proteger las plantas de ataques de trips , Oidium y peronóspora (mildiu).
• Poda en verde- posicionado vertical y deshoje parcial en el perfil del espaldero expuesto al este, para acumular las primeras horas de sol.
• Promover baja multiplicación celular después del cuaje para conseguir granos pequeños (15 – 20% mas chico que lo normal).
• Corte definitivo de los riegos después de completar el envero o pinta de los racimos. O 20 días antes de la cosecha, para evitar el exagerado engorde de esta uva. Esta restricción hídrica depende de las condiciones ambientales de los meses de Enero, Febrero y Marzo.
• Durante las dos semanas previas a la cosecha, practicar un control periódico (1-2 veces/semana) del contenido de azúcar (°Brix) acidez total (g/l expresado en tartárico) y pH. Con la degustación rigurosa de los granos para encontrar el balance de sabores y la pérdida definitiva de taninos ásperos y amargos, en la piel y semilla. También es posible definir la extractabilidad de los pigmentos antocianos, por degustación ó análisis en laboratorio.
• La ventana de la fruta –la elegancia y fineza de este varietal se ubica entre 23 y 24 °Bx , con la acidez más alta posible
• Tres días antes de la cosecha, se debe practicar el deshoje total en la zona de frutos, para una final exposición de luz y una cosecha limpia.
La planta de Malbec, esconde la fruta, con sus hojas enteras, grandes y abundantes.

 

 

BASES ENOLOGICAS:

 

• Cosecha limpia. Solo la fruta sana y madura. Nada de hojas, racimos de segunda flor, palitos y demás extraños que no hacen al vino.
• En los grandes vinos es muy necesaria la cinta de selección. Es el último acto más sublime en el aporte de calidad y distinción al vino de alta gama desde la buena uva.
• Despalillado suave y completo. Molienda suave , intentando abrir y desplegar el hollejo del grano. Es interesante abrir los rodillos para permitir un alto porcentaje de granos enteros que hagan maceración carbónica .
• Tratamiento gentil en el transporte de la uva descobajada y molida.
• Poner la uva molida en vasijas pequeñas (más anchas que altas), para intentar un sombrero de orujos extendido y de bajo espesor.
• El volumen ideal no debe superar los 100 Hl, para un manejo mejor de las reglas de maceración y fermentación.
• Un sangrado previo de 10 – 15% es una operación imprescindible en la búsqueda de concentración y volumen de sabor en este varietal particular.
• Dosis inicial de anhídrido sulfuroso
Uso o no de levaduras seleccionadas.
Ajuste o no de acidez total.
Número de remontajes. Delestages. Pijeage.
Tiempo total de fermentación. Maceración.
Temperatura de fermentación – manejo y control.
Estas condiciones enológicas, las decide el enólogo ó hacedor de vinos, de la misma manera que lo hace el chef, con los condimentos y la preparación de un plato exquisito.
Aquí, se encuentran los grandes secretos de los vinos de autor.
• La permanente degustación del mosto – vino, durante toda la marcha fermentativa, es un oficio muy adecuado para decidir operaciones enológicas oportunas (desarrollo y fijación de color- aparición de aromas reducidos o sulfurados- prolongar la maceración – decidir el desborre y prensado de orujos).
• El prensado de los orujos es un trabajo delicado, donde se debe dar un trato gentil a las pieles y semillas embebidas en vino de alta calidad. Puede dar grandes satisfacciones cuando es bien hecho. No es recomendable el prensado contínuo con prensas de tornillo.
• Terminada la fermentación, los peligros del aire y contaminaciones bacterianas, pueden deteriorar aceleradamente la gran obra recién elaborada. Su control y protección es imprescindible.
• La fermentación maloláctica (F.M.L.) es un mecanismo microbiológico bastante frecuente y natural en nuestra zona. Es importante controlar el balance de acidez y la degustación del vino para decidir justo los regímenes de trasiegos y autoclarificación.
• La fermentación maloláctica, puede orientarse simultáneamente con la crianza en barrica, pero es operación complicada, porque puede ser poco uniforme y atrasada. Necesita mucho control y dedicación.
• La crianza en madera es una labor enológica de alta sensibilidad, atención y cuidado. “Exige el rigor y la disciplina francesa”.
• La elección del tipo de roble, la calidad de barrica y su tostado.
• El tiempo de crianza y las condiciones de temperatura y humedad.
• Los rellenos periódicos y el régimen de trasiegos.
• El alto nivel de higiene de la cava de crianza.
• El control analítico y sensorial de cada barrica, cada mes.
• El agregado de clara de huevo 20 días antes del coupage.
Criar grandes vinos es una artesanía que requiere amor, disciplina y pasión.
• El corte y la mezcla de los vinos antes del embotellado es el acto ceremonioso y artístico del enólogo. Muchas veces requiere el momento justo de la inspiración, para encontrar la armonía, la redondez, el balance. Siempre será necesario compartir los ensayos de corte con el equipo de trabajo.
• Blend de parcelas – blend de terruños – blend de clones – sinfonía con otros varietales nobles ( Cabernet – Petit Verdot – Tannat – Merlot – Syrah )son fascinantes momentos del equipo enológico .
• Los vinicultores franceses adelantan los cortes o blend , antes de la fermentación maloláctica y la crianza en madera. Incluso hoy intentan la mezcla de uvas orientando una Co-fermentación.
• El embotellado es finalmente, la operación que más rigor científico requiere:
• Higiene y eficiencia en la reducción de gérmenes (levaduras Brettanomyces – bacterias lácticas y acéticas) a menos de 10 u.f.c . por botella .
• Niveles mínimos de oxígeno disuelto (menos de 0.8 p.p.m.).
• Anhídrido sulfuroso molecular adecuado ( mínimo aceptable 0.5 p.p.m.).
• Anhídrido carbónico justo (entre 200-300 p.p.m.)
• Alta limpidez (menos de 1 N.T.U.).
• Temperatura de conservación y crianza inferior a 15 °C.

Intentando cumplir con el máximo de estas bases vitícolas y enológicas, solo será necesario el tiempo, la paciencia y el silencio.
Asi se logra agigantar la obra maestra, su abolengo, su nobleza, su valor agregado, de obra limitada , exclusiva para exclusivos.
Con un vino así, ahora sólo queda buscar momentos inolvidables de buena comida con amigos, hijos, padres, esposa ó esposo, amante .
“Nunca solo ni a solas”… sería muy egoísta y poco saludable.

288 Comentarios

  • 19 abril, 2019
    Carlos Vanella

    Gracias Ángel Mendoza por compartir estas experiencias de vida, este protocolo del arte de un “reserva privada de familia”.

  • 22 abril, 2019
    Luis Fernandez

    Como siempre, el tutorial del vino se define consultando a “los Mendoza”. Gracias Angel y a toda tu familia por permitirnos descubrir, cada dia mejor, lo que hay dentro de vidriado de 750ml

  • 3 noviembre, 2020
    Sandra Ubaldo

    Como siempre un gran maestro, gracias por transmitir la poesia de los vinos y tus profundos conocimientos
    Gracias por abrir la puerta de esa hermosa familia, orgullo enorme de tenerte entre nuestros vinos.
    Sandra y Ubaldo
    Degustaciones en monte

  • 3 noviembre, 2020
    Sandra Ubaldo

    Como siempre un gran maestro, gracias por transmitir la poesia de los vinos y tus profundos conocimientos
    Gracias por abrir la puerta de esa hermosa familia, orgullo enorme de tenerte entre nuestros vinos.
    Sandra y Ubaldo
    Degustaciones en monte

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